Valletta (, Maltese: il-Belt Valletta, Maltese pronunciation: [vɐlˈlɛt.tɐ]) is an administrative unit and the capital of Malta. Located on the main island, between Marsamxett Harbour to the west and the Grand Harbour to the east, its population within administrative limits in 2014 was 6,444. According to the data from 2020 by Eurostat, the Functional Urban Area and metropolitan region covered the whole island and has a population of 480,134. Valletta is the southernmost capital of Europe, and at just 0.61 square kilometres (0.24 sq mi), it is the European Union's smallest capital city.

Valletta's 16th-century buildings were constructed by the Knights Hospitaller. The city was named after Jean Parisot de Valette, who succeeded in defending the island from an Ottoman invasion during the Great Siege of Malta. The city is Baroque in character, with elements of Manner...Read more

Valletta (, Maltese: il-Belt Valletta, Maltese pronunciation: [vɐlˈlɛt.tɐ]) is an administrative unit and the capital of Malta. Located on the main island, between Marsamxett Harbour to the west and the Grand Harbour to the east, its population within administrative limits in 2014 was 6,444. According to the data from 2020 by Eurostat, the Functional Urban Area and metropolitan region covered the whole island and has a population of 480,134. Valletta is the southernmost capital of Europe, and at just 0.61 square kilometres (0.24 sq mi), it is the European Union's smallest capital city.

Valletta's 16th-century buildings were constructed by the Knights Hospitaller. The city was named after Jean Parisot de Valette, who succeeded in defending the island from an Ottoman invasion during the Great Siege of Malta. The city is Baroque in character, with elements of Mannerist, Neo-Classical and Modern architecture, though the Second World War left major scars on the city, particularly the destruction of the Royal Opera House. The city was officially recognised as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1980. The city has 320 monuments, all within an area of 0.55 square kilometres (0.21 sq mi), making it one of the most concentrated historic areas in the world. Sometimes called an "open-air museum", Valletta was chosen as the European Capital of Culture in 2018. Valletta was also listed as the sunniest city in Europe in 2016.

The city is noted for its fortifications, consisting of bastions, curtains and cavaliers, along with the beauty of its Baroque palaces, gardens and churches.

 Former mural at Is-Suq tal-Belt illustrating the city's construction

The peninsula was previously called Xagħret Mewwija (Mu' awiya – Meuia; named during the Arab period[1])[2][3] or Ħal Newwija.[4] Mewwija refers to a sheltered place.[5] Some authors state that the extreme end of the peninsula was known as Xebb ir-Ras (Sheb point), of which name origins from the lighthouse on site.[6][7] A family which surely owned land became known as Sceberras, now a Maltese surname as Sciberras.[8] At one point the entire peninsula became known as Sceberras.

Historical affiliations

Order of Knights of the Hospital of Saint John of Jerusalem  Hospitaller Malta 1566–1798
France  French Republic 1798–1800
United Kingdom  Protectorate of Malta 1800–1813
Malta  Crown Colony of Malta 1813–1964
Malta  State of Malta 1964–1974
Malta  Republic of Malta 1974–present

Recent scholarly studies have however shown that the Xeberras phrase is of Punic origin and means 'the headland' and 'the middle peninsula' as it actually is.[9]

Order of Saint John  The Ottoman army bombs the Knights' Three Cities from the peninsula of Sciberras during the 1565 Great Siege. The nave of Saint John's Co-Cathedral Grandmaster's Palace Valletta and the Grand Harbour c. 1801

The building of a city on the Sciberras Peninsula had been proposed by the Order of Saint John as early as 1524.[10] Back then, the only building on the peninsula was a small watchtower[11] dedicated to Erasmus of Formia (Saint Elmo), which had been built in 1488.[12]

In 1552, the Aragonite watchtower was demolished and the larger Fort Saint Elmo was built in its place.[13]

In the Great Siege of 1565, Fort Saint Elmo fell to the Ottomans, but the Order eventually won the siege with the help of Sicilian reinforcements. The victorious Grand Master, Jean de Valette, immediately set out to build a new fortified city on the Sciberras Peninsula to fortify the Order's position in Malta and bind the Knights to the island. The city took his name and was called La Valletta.[14]

The Grand Master asked the European kings and princes for help, receiving a lot of assistance due to the increased fame of the Order after their victory in the Great Siege. Pope Pius V sent his military architect, Francesco Laparelli, to design the new city, while Philip II of Spain sent substantial monetary aid. The foundation stone of the city was laid by Grand Master de Valette on 28 March 1566. He placed the first stone in what later became Our Lady of Victories Church.[15]

In his book Dell'Istoria della Sacra Religione et Illustrissima Militia di San Giovanni Gierosolimitano (English: The History of the Sacred Religion and Illustrious Militia of St John of Jerusalem), written between 1594 and 1602, Giacomo Bosio writes that when the cornerstone of Valletta was placed, a group of Maltese elders said: "Iegi zimen en fel wardia col sceber raba iesue uquie" (Which in modern Maltese reads, "Jiġi żmien li fil-Wardija [l-Għolja Sciberras] kull xiber raba' jiswa uqija", and in English, "There will come a time when every piece of land on Sciberras Hill will be worth its weight in gold").[16]

De Valette died from a stroke on 21 August 1568 at age 74 and never saw the completion of his city. Originally interred in the church of Our Lady of the Victories, his remains now rest in St. John's Co-Cathedral among the tombs of other Grand Masters of the Knights of Malta.[15]

Francesco Laparelli was the city's principal designer and his plan departed from medieval Maltese architecture, which exhibited irregular winding streets and alleys. He designed the new city on a rectangular grid plan, and without any collacchio (an area restricted for important buildings). The streets were designed to be wide and straight, beginning centrally from the City Gate and ending at Fort Saint Elmo (which was rebuilt) overlooking the Mediterranean; certain bastions were built 47 metres (154 ft) high. His assistant was the Maltese architect Girolamo Cassar, who later oversaw the construction of the city himself after Laparelli's death in 1570.[15]

The Ufficio delle Case regulated the building of the city as a planning authority.[17]

The city of Valletta was mostly completed by the early 1570s, and it became the capital on 18 March 1571 when Grand Master Pierre de Monte moved from his seat at Fort St Angelo in Birgu to the Grandmaster's Palace in Valletta.

 Turner's depiction of the Grand Harbour, National Museum of Fine Arts

Seven Auberges were built for the Order's Langues, and these were complete by the 1580s.[18][19] An eighth Auberge, Auberge de Bavière, was later added in the 18th century.[20]

In Antoine de Paule's reign, it was decided to build more fortifications to protect Valletta, and these were named the Floriana Lines after the architect who designed them, Pietro Paolo Floriani of Macerata.[21] During António Manoel de Vilhena's reign, a town began to form between the walls of Valletta and the Floriana Lines, and this evolved from a suburb of Valletta to Floriana, a town in its own right.[22]

In 1634, a gunpowder factory explosion killed 22 people in Valletta.[23] In 1749, Muslim slaves plotted to kill Grandmaster Pinto and take over Valletta, but the revolt was suppressed before it even started due to their plans leaking out to the Order.[24] Later on in his reign, Pinto embellished the city with Baroque architecture, and many important buildings such as Auberge de Castille were remodeled or completely rebuilt in the new architectural style.[25]

In 1775, during the reign of Ximenes, an unsuccessful revolt known as the Rising of the Priests occurred in which Fort Saint Elmo and Saint James Cavalier were captured by rebels, but the revolt was eventually suppressed.[26]

French occupation and British rule  Early morning in 1967 on the notorious Strait Street known to generations of British Servicemen (especially to sailors on shore leave) as "The Gut". Bars and bordellos abounded, and brawls were common, but its popularity never waned.

In 1798, the French invaded the island and expelled the Order.[27] After the Maltese rebelled, French troops continued to occupy Valletta and the surrounding harbour area, until they capitulated to the British in September 1800. In the early 19th century, the British Civil Commissioner, Henry Pigot, agreed to demolish the majority of the city's fortifications.[28] The demolition was again proposed in the 1870s and 1880s, but it was never carried out and the fortifications have survived largely intact.[10]

Eventually building projects in Valletta resumed under British rule. These projects included widening gates, demolishing and rebuilding structures, widening newer houses over the years, and installing civic projects. The Malta Railway, which linked Valletta to Mdina, was officially opened in 1883.[29] It was closed down in 1931 after buses became a popular means of transport.

In 1939, Valletta was abandoned as the headquarters of the Royal Navy Mediterranean Fleet due to its proximity to Italy and the city became a flash point during the subsequent two-year long Siege of Malta.[30] German and Italian air raids throughout the Second World War caused much destruction in Valletta and the rest of the harbor area. The Royal Opera House, constructed at the city entrance in the 19th century, was one of the buildings lost to the raids.[13]

Valletta harbour c. 1850, photo by Calvert Jones 
Valletta harbour c. 1850, photo by Calvert Jones
King's Gate c. 1884–1905 
King's Gate c. 1884–1905
Royal Opera House in 1911 
Royal Opera House in 1911
Bomb damage in Valletta during the Second World War 
Bomb damage in Valletta during the Second World War
Contemporary

In 1980, the 24th Chess Olympiad took place in Valletta.[31]

The entire city of Valletta has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1980, along with Megalithic Temples of Malta and the Hypogeum of Ħal-Saflieni.[32][33] On 11 November 2015, Valletta hosted the Valletta Summit on Migration in which European and African leaders discussed the European migrant crisis.[34] After that, on 27 November 2015, the city also hosted part of the Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting 2015.[35]

Valletta was the European Capital of Culture in 2018.[36]

Renzo Piano's Valletta City Gate (2014) 
Renzo Piano's Valletta City Gate (2014)
Detail of the Parliament House (2015) 
Detail of the Parliament House (2015)
Mediterranean Conference Centre, former Sacra Infermeria (2016) 
Mediterranean Conference Centre, former Sacra Infermeria (2016)
Renovated Tritons' Fountain (2018) 
Renovated Tritons' Fountain (2018)
Auberge d'Italie, renovated in 2016 to host the new MUŻA (Mużew Nazzjonali tal-Arti) 
Auberge d'Italie, renovated in 2016 to host the new MUŻA (Mużew Nazzjonali tal-Arti)
Renovated covered market Is-Suq tal-Belt, 2018 
Renovated covered market Is-Suq tal-Belt, 2018
^ "thinksite.eu" (PDF). Thinksite.eu. Archived from the original (PDF) on 29 June 2018. Retrieved 8 August 2017. ^ "'Xagħret Mewwija: L-Istorja tal-Belt … Milwija' aka Dragut's revenge – The Malta Independent". www.independent.com.mt. ^ "The Secrets of underground Valletta – The Malta Independent". Independent.com.mt. ^ p. 21, footnote 163 Archived 17 January 2016 at the Wayback Machine. ^ "p. 231" (PDF). ^ Manley, Deborah (10 February 2012). Malta: A Traveller's Anthology. Andrews UK Limited. ISBN 9781908493590 – via Google Books. ^ Delbeke, M.; Schraven, M. (9 December 2011). Foundation, Dedication and Consecration in Early Modern Europe. BRILL. ISBN 978-9004217577 – via Google Books. ^ de Piro. ^ Vella, John. "Thalassic imaginaries : witnesses to (an) unwritten history". European Review of History. Taylor & Francis. Retrieved 2 May 2022 – via L-Università ta' Malta. ^ a b Attard, Sonia. "The Valletta Fortifications". aboutmalta.com. Retrieved 12 July 2015. ^ Leopardi, E. R. (1949). "The First Printed Description of Malta : Lyons 1536" (PDF). Scientia. 15 (2): 56, 58. ^ "Triton Square and Bisjuttin Area-Embelishment projects" (PDF). Ministry for Tourism. January 2018. ^ a b "History of Valletta". City of Valletta. Retrieved 19 September 2014. ^ Blouet, Brian W. (October 1964). "Town Planning in Malta, 1530–1798". Town Planning Review. Liverpool University Press. 35 (3): 183. doi:10.3828/tpr.35.3.383v818680j843v8. ^ a b c Gugliuzzo, Carmelina (9 December 2011). "Building a Sense of Belonging. The Foundation of Valletta in Malta". Foundation, Dedication and Consecration in Early Modern Europe. Booksandjournals.brillonline.com. pp. 209–224. doi:10.1163/9789004222083_010. ISBN 9789004222083. ^ Cassar, Mario. "L-Istorja tal-Ilsien Malti". L-Akkademja tal-Malti (in Maltese). Archived from the original on 23 September 2015. Retrieved 19 September 2014. ^ Graff, Philippe (1994). "La Valette: une ville nouvelle du XVIe siècle et son évolution jusqu'à nos jours". Revue du Monde Musulman et de la Méditerranée: Le carrefour maltais (in French). Publications de l'Université de Provence. 71 (1): 157. doi:10.3406/remmm.1994.1641. ISSN 2105-2271. ^ Rudolf, Uwe Jens; Berg, Warren G. (2010). Historical Dictionary of Malta. Scarecrow Press. p. 33. ISBN 9780810873902. ^ Cassar, Paul (1946). "The Hospital of the Order of St. John in Malta" (PDF). Scientia. 12 (2): 57–59. ^ Ellul, Michael (1986). "Carlo Gimach (1651–1730) – Architect and Poet" (PDF). Proceedings of History Week. Historical Society of Malta: 20–22. Archived (PDF) from the original on 2 March 2016. Retrieved 4 January 2016. ^ "Floriana's Pavilion from the Knights to the British". Times of Malta. 4 May 2014. Retrieved 18 April 2015. ^ Armstrong, Gary; Mitchell, Jon P. (2008). Global and Local Football: Politics and Europeanization on the Fringes of the EU. Routledge. p. 44. ISBN 9781134269198. ^ Spiteri, Stephen C. (2012). "Hospitaller Gunpowder Magazines". Arx – International Journal of Military Architecture and Fortification. Occasional Papers (2): 6. ^ Eltis, David; Bradley, Keith; Cartledge, Paul (2011). The Cambridge World History of Slavery: Volume 3: AD 1420-AD 1804. Cambridge University Press. p. 144. ISBN 9780521840682. ^ Mifsud Bonnici, Carmelo (August 1936). "Fr. Emanuel Pinto de Fonseca" (PDF). Malta Letteraria. 11 (8): 230. ^ Borg Muscat, David (2005). "Reassessing the September 1775 Rebellion: a Case of Lay Participation or a 'Rising of the Priests'?". Malta Historical Society. Archived from the original on 21 April 2014. ^ Zammit, Andre (1986). "Valletta and the system of human settlements in the Maltese Islands". Ekistics. Athens Center of Ekistics. 53 (316/317): 89–95. JSTOR 43620704. ^ Bonello, Giovanni (18 November 2012). "Let's hide the majestic bastions". Times of Malta. Retrieved 14 October 2014. ^ Cole, Beverly (2011). Trains. Potsdam, Germany: H.F.Ullmann. p. 64. ISBN 978-3-8480-0516-1. ^ Peter Jacobs (31 January 2016). Fortress Islands Malta: Defence & Re-Supply During the Siege. Pen and Sword. pp. 10–. ISBN 978-1-4738-8255-3. ^ "24th Chess Olympiad". OlimpBase. Retrieved 2 March 2014. ^ Cite error: The named reference unesco was invoked but never defined (see the help page). ^ Cite error: The named reference olivergatt was invoked but never defined (see the help page). ^ "Valletta Conference on Migration (Malta, 11–12 November 2015) – Orientation debate" (PDF). statewatch.org. Council of the European Union. 30 June 2015. Retrieved 12 November 2015. ^ "Queen to greet line-up of despots at meeting of Commonwealth leaders in Malta". Daily Telegraph. 26 November 2015. Retrieved 29 November 2015. ^ "Valletta awarded the title of European Capital of Culture in 2018". gov.mt. Retrieved 25 June 2015.
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